Tracking Chimps in Uganda

All things good come through detailed planning...all things great happen by accident.

We were told once we arrived in Queen Elizabeth Park that if we wanted to go on a 'Chimp-Trek' we needed to buy our permits in Kampala (400km back). Out of morbid curiosity we drove out to Kyambura Gorge. We saw a group coming out of the gorge who made it clear they didn't see jack. We had a chat to the Ranger, and he was most happy to take our money ($100 US) and set a time for a trek.  With very low expectations we hooked up and set forth into the gorge.

It became clear early in the trek our ranger was very slick, and knew the gorge and the chimps like the back of his hand, and within a short time he was following animal signs (mostly half eaten fruit), and leading us to the chimps.

The big break came when a cacophopony of chimp noise burst through the jungle...and the guide calmy stated 'we must cross the river on a log if you want to see them....we will need to be careful of the hippos and crocodiles'. We were boldly led across a fallen tree over the river...whilst one very angry hippo positioned himself to snap up anyone who fell....I did try to give Tanya a little shove, but the guide had an AK47 trained on the hippo....and I would have felt very bad if anything happened to the hippo.

Once over the river the chimps came thick and fast. Our guide was like a greyhound leading us through the jungle at a break-neck speed to be in positioned to see the chimps...they really do move fast.

The highlight of the encounter was when the male (Brutis) put on a show of his dominance. He pounded a tree buttress and charged at us, stopping about a metre short, and let rip with a barrage of chimp abuse....we were already warned to never run when these things happen - I must say that it took quite a bit of bottle not to run. They do not look cute and friendly when they are cranky.

We were pretty well allowed to stay with the chimps as long as we could keep up, and after about 30 minutes of scampering throuh the forest, it was a sad goodbye to our friends.

For a trek that I expected to be an expensive dissapointment...... we were both mesmerised by these guys.

Bring on the gorillas!